Saturday, 29 March 2025

And Finally

Despite our reluctance to actually go away this winter we're glad we did. Also changing our "modus operandi" to staying longer in fewer places suited us better and next time in Spain we may well book ahead as it is now becoming extremely popular and most places were at, or almost at, maximum capacity. A sign of the times perhaps.

It would have been nice if the fine weather in Spain had carried on over to Portugal, but in reality the weather deteriorated over the entire Iberian peninsular so we may well have been worse off staying or moving back to Spain. But the weather never stopped us from doing anything although we spent a lot more time just sitting rather than the continuous moving about as in previous years. The short interlude with our friends, June and Derek, also made a really nice change - although we don't have any problem talking to other people aquaintances were usually pretty short, maybe a day or two, and strangely we spent more time talking to other nationals than British!

Our lack of planning, that is, leaving everything until the last minute, showed up in various ways with forgetting guidebooks, having the wrong credit/debit cards and spending far too much on mobile phones which didn't turn out to as convenient as we'd hoped. Must do better!

Bertie performed very well, apart from the breakdown in Portugal which could have happened at any time. We consider ourselves very lucky in that the breakdown truck that RAC organised was from one of those garages that had proper mechanics and not just parts changers. Getting replacements for the broken parts would have been a nightmare but they just repaired the affected bits quite satisfactorily, saving us a lot of time. Not sure it was cheaper but it got done with minimum fuss. As always there are a few small running repairs to be sorted but we really must see about a respray of the cab area as the flaking paint is now getting quite unsightly. But for an 18 year old vehicle with 156242 miles on the clock he's not doing too badly!

So what's next? We're pretty sure we'll be going to Ireland again in May, especially as Jamie is due a rabies booster - we could have had it done maybe in Spain but often vets only want to do a 12 month treatment, as do the French, so back to Church Vets in Donegal for a 3 year jab. We've used up our 90 days in 180 in Schengen but are considering France or Germany later in the year. However we've got a lot to do at home first.

Thursday, 27 March 2025

Thursday 27 March - Boulogne to Home

Up at 6.00am, just gettig light, after a very quiet night alone in the car park! Cold, not quite a frost, but clear with the promise of a nice day. A quick cuppa and snack before tidying up and then to the Eurotunnel noting the rtoads were quite busy even at this early hour. First off Pet Passport then checkin where we were allocated an earlier train. The place was deserted and French customs not interested, apart from stampng the passports. UK Immigration did a full van check, probably to give them something to do, and round to boarding where we had to wait a few minutes before proceeding onto the train.

35 minutes later we pulled into Folkestone and being the second vehicle in line were off quickly. Unfortunately our arrival coincided with the unloading of a freight shuttle and for much of the M20 we had to contend with lots of foreign registered trucks. We went straight to the services area, now changed from Stop24, for our usual full English before going along to Tesco in Ashford for a fuel top-up, which we think was actually more expensive than in France!

Not much to say abou the trip north; the M25 was reasonably quiet being mid-morning and we made excellent progress, getting right up to Peterborough services before needing a stop. Roadworks still ongoing at Darrington slowed us down a bit then Jamie wanted out so we dropped into Ferrybridge and had a latish lunch. We managed to catch the A1 Western Bypass, where we'd hoped the roadworks had been completed but weren't, and the start of the rush hour so it was a bit slow. Arrived home at 5.20pm.

A quick cuppa then mostly got Bertie unloaded ready for cleaning and a few running repairs over the weekend. Have to say that, apart from the breakdown in Portugal which was just one of those things, the van has been performing very well indeed so a bit of TLC is now warranted. He's got his mojo back!

Wednesday, 26 March 2025

Wednesday 26 March - Le Crotoy to Boulogne/St Martin

The weather finally decided to let up and we woke to a bright clear sun shiny morning and in no rush. Breakfast, serviced the van (hopefully for the last time this trip) and on our way, planning to use the coastal D925 to Berck and Boulogne although TomTom kept trying to turn us inland, probably to the D901 which is also a good road but not very scenic. We found out shortly why when we encountered works that had pretty well closed a road through one of the villages with no "Route Barre" signs we saw. Fortunately it was lunchtime and the workers were all elsewhere so we just ploughed on through!

Called in to an Intermarche just south of Boulogne as we'd been trying to find a ceramic knife, the same as we'd purchased on our autumn trip last year - Intermarche was the only major we'd not yet tried and were convinced it was there. As luck would have it we found what we were looking for, though not the exact brand, so also bought a baguette and some cakes to have with afternoon tea, and some strawberries and..... well you know how it goes! Thereafter we headed for the Centre Commerciale at Boulogne/St Martin where we'd planned to overnight before our early morning Eurotunnel tomorrow. Like City Europ used to be, this is a regularly used place for motorhomes to overnight and has multiple stores, restaurants etc. with a huge car park and no problems (we hope) with illegal immigrants trying to secrete themselves aboard for a free trip to the UK.

Which is where I'm now sitting typing this rubbish in glorious sunshine watching the comings and goings. We have of course had a look around the shopping centre, naturally making the odd purchase but that's about it for today. Early start in the morning so early night for us. We'll do a summary when we get home.

Tuesday, 25 March 2025

Tuesday 25 March - Villedieu les Poeles to Le Crotoy

Still cold and cloudy but at least it was dry when we surfaced. Most of the other vans left before us so after breakfast emptied the waste tanks - water was off - and rejoined the autoroute to Caen. Our plan was to drop onto the coastal D roads once clear of the Pont du Normandie but we got a bit lost on the Caen ring and found ourselves heading for Ouistreham then getting caught up in a traffic holdup. Managed to circumvent that then took the canal/river crossing at Pegasus Bridge to get us heading in the right direction with a bit of skillful navigation from Bren. However we were then plagued with diversions, weight limits etc so found ourselves turning back onto the A13 and we'll take the toll, got to be a better way. Discovered that the A13 is now a free-flow toll road, that is, you are just registered on camera and you pay online up to 72 hours later, like the Dartford Crossing. We settled that quickly and easily later on.

Crossed the bridge, still a magnificent sight no matter how many times we've gone that way, then to avoid more tolls turned towards Le Havre and eventually, with more nav from Bren, got onto the D925 for Fecamp where we stopped in a LeClerc car park for a late lunch. We've used this route several times before and although it's obviously not as fast as the autoroute we're not in any particular rush and the roads are good enough for us to enjoy a more leisurely pace. Although it would be later than our usual stopping time we elected to push on to Le Crotoy, a favourite and regular stopover at the aire. It's a large site so the dozen or so vans parked up looked a bit lost but left lots of choice for a pitch.

A little bit of unforecasted rain after tea but still cold so the heating was switched on, something we've rarely had to do this trip in the evenings. We're now easily within shouting distance of Eurotunnel and the weather forecast is dry but cool for all the way home.

Monday, 24 March 2025

Monday 24 March - Grand Fougeray to Villedieu les Poeles

A cold grey morning and up earlyish as we'd a few things to get done today, the most important being a visit to the vet. Breakfast and serviced the van then round to the vet but they couldn't see us until 3.00pm. Now I'm sure if I'd spoken to the vet himself........... Ah well, it's not a real problem and as we really need to get it done today or the latest tomorrow we'll just wait. Fuel at the adjacent Super U station, which is around the cheapest in France, then along to the Super U for some shopping. That done we just returned to the aire and idled away the rest of the morning.

After lunch returned and were seen promptly and all done 10 minutes later. Bit pricey although probably due to needing two tablets as Jamie is a bit heavier than he should be, which is something we're going to address when we get home. He doesn't appear to be fat but 3 vets now have said he could do with losing a kilo. With that out of the way we got back on the road for a couple of hours; we could have stayed another night but really wanted to get a little further on and 100 miles was okay. A fast N road to Rennes before we joined the A84 non-toll autoroute towards Caen. Bren found a likely looking aire  near Avranches, about halfway, so programmed it into TomTom and found a nice location just off the town centre of Villedieu les Poeles with 7/8 dedicated (and marked off to stop cars using them as it was attached to a busy car park) spaces and right by a small river. Parked up, the usual cuppa but decided against a quick wander into the town when, you've guessed, it started to rain again!

The app noted a complaint that the crows were very noisy and the church clock rang every 15 mins plus the street lights were on all night - some people just can't be satisfied with a free parking place, with a service point too - but the church bells stopped at 10.00 pm and the crows mostly went to sleep when it got dark and the car park went quiet. The blinds took care of the lights!

Sunday, 23 March 2025

Sunday 23 March - Royan to Grand Fougeray

We decided to stay 3 nights on the promise of a reasonable weather forecast so that we could visit Royan and maybe take Jamie onto the beach for a good run. But the weather gods were having none of it and each time we were getting ready to go it started raining again so we ended up just chilling out in Bertie. At least we had hookup and plenty of groceries so hobbies to the fore.

But we now need to start heading north so as Sunday is usually a good day for travelling after our smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, not forgetting the buttered brown bread, (decadent as ever!) we positioned onto the service point and completed all the domestics before negotiating the barrier - we'd had to contact CCP again as our card top up payment hadn't registered but they sorted it in seconds, citing a problem with their payments system. Programming TomTom to Eurotunnel from here took us north to La Rochelle using the D and N roads, all very good, plus the odd free autoroute so we made excellent progress. It would have been nicer if the weather had cooperated but we contended with frequent showers, some quite heavy. Lunch at a service area on the one bit of autoroute.

Undecided how far we should try to go Bren started reviewing aires de camping car as we approached our normal stopping time. Grand Fougeray, halfway between Nantes and Rennes looked like it might fit the bill and as TomTom had already spotted it went for it. A typical village aire close to the centre with 7/8 spaces and a service point, we manoeuvred into as flat a position as we could without needing the levelling ramps, joining the couple of other French vans already parked. With thoughts of our current needs such as fuel, some shopping and, most importantly, a vet we got Google maps to scout around and found all three within walking distance so after a cuppa donned raincoats, just in case, and had a scout around  the village. Obviously as it's Sunday afternoon we were not expecting anywhere to be open but a look is helpful plus we got a bit of much-needed exercise.

So our plan tomorrow is first visit the vet to see if/when they can sort his worming treatment then fuel and shopping. With that out of the way we can then just continue north to see how far we can get.

Thursday, 20 March 2025

Thursday 20 March - Contis Plage to Royan

A very quiet night and even Jamie didn't bother us until our normal getting up time. Somewhat cooler than forecast and a high overcast meant no direct sun but it warmed up quickly nevertheless. Nice as the aire was we decided to carry on a bit so after breakfast moved onto the service point to discover that, as we'd guessed, our arrival hadn't been registered. But CCP seem to have got their act really together as it gave us a number to call, promptly answered by an English speaker who instantly knew who we were, where we were and even that we were standing on the dump point! He also knew what time we'd arrived last night so reset things for us and all completed very quickly with absolutely no fuss. Impressed at our first use of CCP so we'll certainly use them again. Good value too, around £12.50 pn although we weren't actually able to get hookup (not CCP fault).

So once finished we moved off with no more intention than to run north along the coastal road then join the Bordeaux ring before once again returning to the coast as we were in no rush. An enjoyable run on the "D" roads, having to make a diversion at Blaye when the road through the town was closed, before joining the madhouse Bordeau periferique which we chose to go around to the west - it doesn't seem to make any difference. Off at the A10 and over the two big rivers, Gironde and Dordogne, before turning off towards the estuary and coast once again. Lunch in a layby whilst we considered our next stop. Royan was within our normal end-of-day time frame and also had a CCP close to the town centre as well as a couple of countryside locations nearby as backup. So we thought we'd take a look and found it easily enough with a number of spaces still available - which the CCP app had already told us, a useful feature. This time managed a hookup before we relaxed with a cuppa and decided that the weather forecast was stable enough for us to stay here 2/3 nights as a final break before making our run up to Calais for the train on Thursday.

Once again it has been very warm all day, 21/22C noted on the various pharmacy signs - most seem to have time, date and temperature displays. No direct sunshine but it's dry and we're more than happy with that. 

Wednesday, 19 March 2025

Wednesday 19 March - Vittoria to Contis Plage

Dry and cold overnight, the screens, which despite being wet had been deployed last night, had just about dried out so breakfast and a quick look at the Wednesday market before getting away. We could not use the service point as it was closed off during the market hours but we're good as there will be other points along the way. So with Bordeaux programmed into TomTom we got back on the autopiste, watching the weather deteriorate quite quickly although it never did actually rain, just low clouds in and around the mountain range we were passing through. But it eventually became sunny and warm as we approached San Sebastian then, as TomTom was set to avoid tolls, we missed the Bordeaux turn and found ourselves going around San Sebastian and to Irun. Because of this we've found it's not worth avoiding the tolls but it was too late, although there is always a silver lining and we topped up with (cheap) Spanish fuel just before the border.

At Irun we got back onto the, now, French autoroute once again accepting the tolls as worth the time saved and a few kilometres later pulled into a rest area for lunch. We now had a decision to make as we have a full week to reach Calais. Do we keep heading on up to Bordeaux and kill some time later or maybe find somewhere nice for a couple of days? Once again the weather forecast was consulted and seemed to favour hanging around south of Bordeaux so once back on the road we left the autoroute and headed for the coast. Bren picked out a commercial aire, which turned out to be a Camping Car Park site, for which we had a card and app, near St Julien de Borne at Contis Plage. On arrival the barrier was raised so we just drove in and found a nice spot on this quite busy place. However this may well have been a mistake as the barrier came down shortly after so we don't know yet how we're going to get out, not having registered as coming in!

The site has all the usual servicing facilities as well as electric, although all the points had been "claimed" but we can manage well enough, the solar panels absorbing the warm sunshine - we recorded a temperature of 22C, the highest we've seen since southern Spain! At this stage we're not sure if we should stay here a day or two or push on and find somewhere for over the weekend, but we'll think about that later. For now Jamie is happy to be able to sit outside in the sun, checking out all the other dogs!

Tuesday 18 March - Ampudia to Vittoria

More heavy rain overnight which only stopped as we got up but the screens were absolutely soaking wet when we took them off so they ended up in the shower. Breakfast, service the van and pleasantly surprised to find the water on as it's always been off on our earlier visits. First priority to find fuel which was on the autovia but not too expensive at £1.29 pl. As mentioned yesterday, north west Spain doesn't have much going for it scenically so we stuck to the autovia, letting the cruise control look after things. The road became the autopiste AP1 but tolls on this section have been abolished so we just stayed with it.

Although we'd put San Sebastian in the satnav it was beginning to look a bit of a stretch given that we'd not yet stopped for lunch. We knew that there was a good aire at Vittoria-Gasteiz with an adjacent Mercadona supermarket for some grocery shopping so as we're in no rush diverted there. Quite busy, it's now got a barrier which is operated by a parking app but it was quite simple to use and still free so we got in, found a spot and settled in to a late lunch. Later we took a walk across to the supermarket, wrapping up as it was a decidedly cold breeze, and got the necessary. We noticed that a new Eroski supermarket had been opened next to the aire so Bren just had to go and have a look!

Later in the evening it started raining again but the forecast is for it to stop around midnight and then be clear for at least a couple of hours. We'll see.

Monday, 17 March 2025

Monday 17 March - Chaves to Ampudia

Another nice, if cool, morning and gave Jamie a decent walk, mainly to find a different way off this site because we're a bit worried about catching the water drain again on the top of the steep slope. Found a back road out so we'll go that way. Breakfast, paid our dues via the honesty box, service then with Leon in Spain on the satnav headed off. Short holdup just outside town due to a police investigation, though couldn't see what about, and onto the autostrada to cross the border into Spain. In heavy contrast to Portugal, Spain was flat and boring so we stuck to the autovia, only leaving to try for a cross-country road to Leon but failed to find it.

Not long after we stopped for lunch and checked the maps etc to plan for the afternoon. That's when we noticed an old favourite Spanish aire, at Ampudia, was more or less on our route so decided it was worth heading for tonight. Fuel looking a bit low so started looking for replenishment but nothing showed up on our route except the station at Ampudia which looked like it had been shut down for a while. Not too worried though as Palencia was only about 30km and we'd more than enough for that. Aire was empty, not surprising as it is well off the beaten track, but we were joined later by a Belgian van, the occupants of which marched off into the village and we didn't see them again!

Put the clocks forward an hour to correct for Spanish time.

Sunday, 16 March 2025

Sunday 16 March - Sao Pedro do Sul to Chaves

The rain petered out during the night and we woke at a more reasonable hour to a bright beautiful day. No services here so after bacon and egg sarnis (it's Sunday!) we travelled a short distance south to a recognised parking place with services. We knew beforehand there was little chance of us being able to overnight there but at least the service point had been kept clear so we were able to carry out a full domestic service, chatting to a friendly Portuguese guy who gave us a hand.

Then, with fingers crossed we set off for Castro Daire (again) to rejoin the Rota Nacional 2. Once again we encountered places where the Rota diverted off the N2 and, although it showed us lots of nice things to see on at least two occasions the signs disappeared and we got lost! At one point we dropped onto the motorway for a short distance just to get ourselves back on track.

But it was all worth it and with Bertie running well  we enjoyed a stunning run on the old road up to Vila Real. The only negative was that as it was the old road, replaced with a motorway, maintenance was pretty well non-existent and often we were down to less than 30 mph but still it was well worth it and is well-recommended. Of course the bright warm sunshine helped a great deal!

Shortly after Vila Real we stopped for a quick bite to eat, quick because we wanted to make the town of Chaves for our overnight rest, it being the last town in Portugal, and we weren't really sure what the situation would be despite several possibilities in our parking apps. We chose a likely looking spot in the town but, not entirely unexpectedly, it was absolutely chock full of cars. The Portuguese are the same as their Spanish neighbours when it comes to Sundays, which are family days out with a vengeance.

However we had notived a motorhome parking area as we entered the town but had discounted it as it was a commercial area and we really didn't need anything. But rather than traipse around the town we decided to just go for it so returned and joined another van, which turned out to be an English couple in a French registered motorhome who, as "reception" was closed, told us what to do. There were instructions anyway but it's nice when someone offers assistance. So we settled down to enjoy the last of the days sunshine, happy that our day had gone well and our problems appeared to have been successfully sorted. 

There are full facilities here, including electric and showers, so we'll make full use of them before heading into Spain tomorrow.

Saturday, 15 March 2025

Saturday 15 March - Sao Pedro do Sul

We weren't too sure about the opening hours of the garage but somebody appeared about 7.30 and opened the gates so we got up, not that we could do much! So for now we just got on with life and just after 9.00 Rui and his mate appeared to continue work. We stayed out of their way of course but there was little communication although Rui did occasionally show me what he was doing.

But shortly after lunch we realised that everything was going okay and there was a real chance it would be finished today. We just stayed out of their way until around 5.30pm they pronounced themselves ready and started the motor, checking all the connections etc. and waiting for the temperature to reach normal operating levels. All turned out well and Rui went through what he'd done and what we should watch for, although he was confident we'd have no more problems - well with these repairs anyway. So into the office to pay the reasonable bill, bearing in mind the man hours they'd put in, said our thanks and manoeuvred out of the yard.

Still a little nervous we drove carefully, first to Lidl to restock on items we were short of, and of course the heavens opened! Then, not wanting to travel any distance in the dark, we returned to the park where we'd stayed on Thursday night for a late tea then an earlyish night. We'd both expended a lot of nervous energy over the last 36 hours so needed the rest.

But we felt we had been incredibly lucky that the recovery driver was also able to fix our problem, especially in the time frame. Ordinarily, and our expectation, we would have had to wait for the breakdown company to locate a repairer and then be transported there, which wouldn't have been until at least Monday. Then we would have needed accommodation whilst the work was done. We believe someone like a Fiat workshop would have replaced parts (when they could get hold of them!), rather than repairing, involving far more dismantling and of course a much larger bill. Thank goodness there are still many smaller "proper" workshops with mechanics who know what they're doing still around.

Friday, 14 March 2025

Friday 14 March - Sao Pedro do Sul to Sao Pedro do Sul!

The rain did indeed clear up during the night and we awoke to a beautiful crisp, clear, sunny and dry day, but it was a bit parky! Nevertheless it did warm up quite quickly and after breakfast we were on our way again - no services here but we're fine for now. Following the problems we'd had sorted before we came away we'd checked oil and water yesterday and before leaving confirmed all was still okay. To be honest we've been neglecting this but don't think it was contributary to what happened next.

Making our way up the N228 towards Castro Daire and climbing quite hard the water temperature warning came on and the engine started to feel a tad rough. Pulled up outside a fuel station to investigate and discovered coolant pouring out from underneath and down the nearest drain with a strong vibration from the motor. Shut everything off but couldn't see where it was coming from. Fortunately the garage had a mechanic so we enlisted his help and he discovered a plastic pipe had broken underneath the radiator and completely drained the cooling system. He couldn't do anything to help - to be fair we think he was just a glorified tyre fitter but at least he was honest. So with uneasy recollections of last years debacle we called the RAC, our European breakdown service provider. This time they seemed much more switched on, explaining they would get a breakdown truck to us as soon as possible and once the problem was diagnosed we'd look at our options. Called a few minutes later by the Portuguese breakdown service who said 30-45 mins.

Now we were pretty sure of our location and the fact we could tell them the name of the garage should have helped but an hour later another phone call that their driver couldn't find us. No wonder, he was 100km away! By now we could offer coordinates, What3Words location and more but she was eventually confident she'd now got the right location and would send another truck, 45-60 mins. The RAC chipped in here and said they would help the Portuguese company as from the location details they described what we could see out of the window, so higher confidence. Alas, being lunchtime, we were not surprised when nobody turned up, even with more communication with the RAC. But at least it wasn't raining.

Around 4.00pm a breakdown truck arrived with a really good mechanic (named Rui), who spoke excellent English, and he instantly spotted that we had more problems than a broken water pipe - all the bolts in the offside engine mount had sheared off and the motor dropped. This was getting serious but after a short discussion and a couple of telephone calls he loaded us up (left Jamie in his cage in the van) and took us to his own garage - in Sao Pedro do Sul! He also agreed that it would be fine for us to stay in their compound in the van and we could plug in electric and get water if needed, until the breakdown service found us a repairer, probably now not until after the weekend, which we were resigned to. After unloading he carefully watched a colleague put Bertie over a pit in the workshop area, we thought to get a better look at what was going on.

A few minutes later we noticed Rui and his colleague had started taking things to bits, okkaaay! When I asked he was looking for a replacement water pipe and was having no luck, but had an idea for a workaround. As for the engine mount his intention was to remove the snapped bolt then drill and fit helicoil inserts. They worked at it until 7.00pm until the place closed. Obviously the gates were shut, meaning we were locked in but not a problem and with the electric plugged in we were comfortable enough. However their last action was to release the two big guard dogs to roam during the night. Now they were not particularly nasty just very inquisitive, as are most dogs, and persistent, having discovered Jamie, who was having none of their attention. We managed to quieten him down but one of the two guardians came around the van barking several times during the night. Jamie actually did ignore it so we did too!

 

Thursday, 13 March 2025

Thursday 13 March Abrantes to Sao Pedro do Sul

Yesterday was a do nothing day, with only a few showers so we managed a couple of decent walks with Jamie along the river. The old town looked nice but it was a longish walk and then a steep climb so we pleaded laziness and stayed at home! Watching the weather forecast is a bit depressing as there appears no respite and indeed the southern part of Spain, and by default Portugal, are forecasting quite severe weather including appreciable amounts of snow! But there is little we can do about it for now.

So today our plan was to continue along Rota Nacionale 2, once again discovering that it didn't always stick to the N2 but occasionally went off "the pretty way". We did however learn to anticipate it and left a few very short bits unexplored, the whole route anyway being a very pleasant drive. Nature also starting to wake up with heather and magnolias blooming early. Stopped for lunch by the river at another pretty town of Gois, having to do an about turn when we came to a weight-restricted and narrow bridge. The N2 is a bit hit and miss along this section and several times we found ourselves apparently going the wrong way so eventually we dropped onto the IP3 which more or less parallels the N2. Although not yet desperately in need, we spotted a service area selling LPG and also topped off the fuel tank whilst we were there.

Time, a little late actually, to start site hunting and the largish town of Viseu had several P4N spots but unfortunately they were all full or entirely unsuitable - it didn't help that it was now pouring with rain. Castro Daire looked promising and it was a very nice looking spot - but again full. Now getting dark we were starting to get a little, well, frustrated and cast our net further. A park at the small town of Sao Pedro do Sul meant backtracking around 25km but was more promising so we took the decision to give it a go and arrived in the gathering gloom to find a large empty carpark with one other van parked up. Success! (We always manage to find somewhere).

It now being late teatime we settled and got ourselves some nourishment before it once again started raining quite heavily, forecast until midnight but then clearing, promising a cold night.

Tuesday, 11 March 2025

Tuesday 11 March - Alcacovas to Abrantes

Another wet night and up around our normal time, managing to take Jamie out between showers. After breakfast we took advantage of the servicing facilities (thankyou Alcacovas!) before finding our way back onto the N2 and heading north to find a supermarket at Montemor, a few miles on, to get some bits we were a bit light on. Found the Intermarche okay, also meeting a Dutch couple who had been at Alcacovas, then continue north. Once again we encountered more heavy rain showers and observed some quite striking cloud formations, but it did appear that there were more brighter periods the further we went.

Lunch was on a rough layby-ish spot, noting again the lack of traffic and the very nice scenery. Surprised to also spot a few storks and their nests which we thought was a bit far north for them - we're out of the Algarve now by the way. Continuing on our leisurely way we sort of estimated that the town of Abrantes would be a convenient place to look for a place to stop, bearing in mind that we considered 4.00 pm was as late as we should be to have a good chance of finding a spot. Abrantes boasted a municipal site at a very reasonable price and promising location so TomTom was programmed and took us to Parque Tejo where a very nice lady booked us in for two nights, once she'd finished with the Dutch couple we'd encountered earlier. A bit wet underfoot, not surprising considering the amount of rain, nevertheless a hard standing with electric and nearby full facilities for €9 (including €1 for Jamie, first time we've "paid" for him) per night close to the, very full and fast-flowing, river and good views of the old town across the adjacent bridge.

With the weather now appearing to have settled to a short dry spell we got the screens in place, hopefully to dry out a bit, and enjoyed a cuppa in the last of the days sunshine. We're in no rush so thought a couple of nights would be nice and hopefully might get a bit of sun although, once again, the forecast is not good. Looking at our "timetable", which maybe includes getting a rabies booster jab for Jamie in Spain then the usual worming 24 hour treatment closer to the Eurotunnel, we can afford to take our time. Thankfully this trip is proving to far more relaxing than last year!

Monday, 10 March 2025

Monday 10 March - Silves to Alcacovas

We've spent a reasonably quiet week on the Camperpark and been well satisfied. Unfortunately the weather hasn't been very cooperative and we've spent most of the week dodging rain showers, some particularly heavy. But the whole of south western Iberia has suffered the same, some areas worse than others, so we just have to put up with it. Nothing we can do about it so just relax and enjoy our own company and entertainment. It's not been cold though. There has been quite a turnover throughout the week, many only stopping one or two nights although there is one fairly obnoxious German in a converted lorry who thinks he owns the place and seems to have been here for some time. Interestingly, his front registration plate has been covered up, and we wonder if that's to stop the Portuguese police noting that he has probably been in the country too long..........

Halfway through the week whilst doing the domestics the waste pipe on the bathroom basin came adrift, depositing a bowl full of water all over the bathroom cabinet and floor. However to get it back on involved a degree of disassembling, including removing the sink itself (fortunately not the tap!) when we discovered that the cheap plastic mounting plate had broken away plus one of the holding screws was missing. Always up for a challenge we glued the mounting plate back into position and reinforced it with some small bolts, which eventually had to be replaced with screws, but ended up with a solid fix, the missing holding wingnut replaced with one from "elsewhere" - much better than the original mount. Oh yes, we did remember the waste pipe and a small screw hopefully ensured it would not come apart again. Typical example of a 5 min job taking 2 hours, but we had nothing better to do and you do have to expect maintenance issues on a 17 year old van.

On Thursday the forecast seemed to be more settled so after an earlyish lunch we took Jamie for a walk into the town, calling at the T.I. for a map (50 cents) and also getting some cash. Worth noting that all the ATMs were non bank aligned and made a small charge for withdrawals no matter whose card you use. Silves, like many towns, is built up around a cathedral and an odd-shaped "castle" on a hill which was a fairly steep climb to the top. Outside the walls, now mostly gone or at least hidden, lots of narrow winding streets with plenty of cafes and bars, whilst inside it was mostly all the old cottage type dwellings, generally very well preserved. Odd, then, that there was a junior school right at the top although a car park suggested there was a back road up for the cathedral and castle. A gentle stroll back to the van, calling at the supermarket for some bits then enjoyed an ice cream sitting in the warm sunshine. Late on we took the precaution of packing away the chairs as the weather forecast - which seems to be dominating our trip this year - was for longer spells of heavy rain.

The rest of our stay was spent mostly indoors with the occasional foray with Jamie in between the rain, keeping the van domestics serviced and a brief trip to the supermarket to top up prior to our departure. Bren discovered that there was an actual recognised tourist trail along the route we had thought to take north through Portugal, the Nacionale 2, which follows the N2 from Faro in the Algarve to Chaves on the northern border with Spain, bypassing the major towns and cities which we've visited before. You can even get a "passport" which many of the several hundred places of interest, shops etc, along the route will stamp showing your progress. It's around 760km long, good for 3/4 days gentle travelling so we confirmed that as our intention.

We can recommend Algarve Camperstop Silves (it has a couple of sister sites) as having good facilities, friendly staff and reasonably priced - cost us €11.50 pn including electric. Showers extra and curiously toilets at €1 a go! However to get a place you really need to be arriving well before lunch as you cannot book - that said last thing at night we did spot the odd unoccupied pitch and on two occasions larger units (with trailers) were parked on an unused area. You may just get lucky! 

*     *     *     *     *

So, onward! As expected, more rain but with the occasional bright spell which allowed us to finish the domestics and packing away. Our insulating screens, though still very effective, were absolutely soaking wet, difficult to pack and then had to be stored in the shower so they could hopefully dry out a little. Away by 10.35 and rather than return to Faro we set TomTom to intercept the N2 at Castro Verde where we found the Nacionale 2 well signposted. Unfortunately, although the scenery was very nice the weather still decided to be fickle and we spent quite a lot of time with the wipers and headlights on, but at least the roads were quiet, if not always the best surface in the world! We paused at Barragem de Roxo, which was a suggested stopover, as many of the barragems of Portugal are, with a view to overnighting. But we'd not been on the road all that long so just had lunch and pushed on. Just a note to beware if using the Nacionale 2, especially with a larger unit. It occasionally diverts off the N2 to go through a small town or village "of interest" although we don't know what qualifies it as such. In one place we ended up driving along back streets, still following the signs, but then came to a closed road which involved some careful manoeuvring then creeping around the one way system until we found our way back onto the N2.

With the weather still unsettled Bren started surveying some choices to park up overnight and hit upon the small town of Alcacovas which boasted a carpark with motorhome service point, next to the ambulance station and a sports centre, which was a bit tricky to find. We joined a couple of other vans and settled in, only for the weather to once again spoil our day. But it was a quiet enough place and we were joined later by a couple of other vans, although most of the carpark was on a steepish slope and one gave up trying to get level and subsequently disappeared.

Monday, 3 March 2025

Monday 3 March - Armecao to Silves

The weekend did turn out to have mixed weather, both Saturday and Sunday starting off dry and sunny but deteriorating after lunch. Overnight some of the showers were quite heavy and the morning revealed that the sandy surface we were on turned quite muddy, despite having the Morocco mat deployed. Not particularly cold and we did get several opportunities to enjoy the sunshine. Walkies revealed the site as quite extensive with a large proportion of "semi-permanent" caravans which were in fact quite well used we noticed on Friday and Saturday nights. But much to our surprise there were also a few locations that were almost deserted although that may have been something to do with their proximity to the quite busy road. The bar, restaurant and swimming pools didn't appear to be busy though.

However we had decided on only three days here so Sunday afternoon saw us packing up what we didn't need to avoid the forecast heavy rain then on Monday up earlyish to do the rest between showers. Van serviced and bill paid we were away by 10.55 with no real idea of where we were going, just a thought that we needed some shopping. Terry had been perusing various locations further along the coast on the basis of wherever the best weather forecast was and chanced upon Silves. We had stayed at this attractive town early on in our motorhome travels but ever since had failed to find anywhere to stop, it being very popular. However it was still early in the day so we decided to take a chance and go direct to the Algarve Motorhome Parking site, just on the western edge of the town, only about 15km away according to TomTom.

Passing through the town we did notice the m/h stopover near the swimming pool closer to the centre was full to overflowing, many vans being parked up in the area outside the actual site, so did have some concerns, however the Algarve website did say they had 5 spaces and the barrier was up when we arrived. Luckily they still had two pitches left, one with and one without electric so we plumped for the electric one. Another van pulled in behind us and took the other and the barrier came down.........!

This is a commercial dedicated motorhome parking area with all facilities, though a couple, which we didn't need, were an extra small cost. Pitches of a good size on hardstanding laid out so that everybody got plenty of sunshine with just a few trees providing limited shade, not needed for now though. Very helpful receptionist who showed us everything we needed and unlocked the electricity for us, we got a good "vibe" right from the outset and therefore booked 7 nights. As we were staying longer we used the ramps to level the van - we don't always do this as long as it's only a bit off - then got the chairs out and enjoyed a coffee.

After a late lunch we wandered along the road about 250m to the big Continente supermarket to restock the larder before returning to settle down for some more relaxation in the sunshine. After all, this is what we came here for! We have no plans although will probably take a walk into the town when we're sure the weather has settled, however the mid-term forecast isn't particularly good.

As before we won't be doing daily updates so, see you next time!

Friday, 28 February 2025

Friday 28 February - Salir to Armicao de Pera

We decided to use all the allowed 3 days at Salir, mainly because it was free (including electric!) but also because there was some rain forecast and we thought we'd be better off staying here rather than take a chance on finding somewhere suitable, knowing just how crowded with motorhomes Portugal (and Spain) is. As mentioned we enjoyed a nice lunch with John and his wife at a quite busy restaurant in the village on Wednesday, leaving Jamie to his own devices in a well-ventilated and shaded Bertie. This has never been a problem before and wasn't now, we don't make any fuss when we leave, just make sure he has water and a couple of treats. He gets attention on our return, of course, and he seems to be quite happy with that.

The forecast rain arrived bang on time according to Ventusky, our reliable weather app, however we'd already packed away everything we didn't need. So it was a rather wet start to Friday but we managed to do all the chores between the gradually reducing showers and with the van fully serviced we departed this excellent camperstop. We had debated which direction to go and the weather forecast suggested we'd probably be better off heading down to and along the south coast so we started towards Loule, the regional market town and of course without satnav we got a bit tied up in the centre although eventually we found our way out and down to the coast, the rain now slowly being replaced with sunshine.

We began a look at Villamoura but then remembered this was a very modern holiday resort with mostly apartments and nothing for us so turned around and headed for Albufeira, looking out for reasonably priced fuel along the way. We have been here before and had forgotten how spread out the town was but nevertheless continued to wander through on a mainish road, stopping off at a Galp fuel station and paying a lot more than in Spain, the best we saw was €1.86 (£1.51) per litre. We did recall reading somewhere that Spain has been censured by the EU as it hasn't implemented the taxes proscribed, making fuel a lot cheaper than elsewhere, as we've found.

We had a look at a motorhome stopover that showed up in one of our apps but it was, as expected, ram jam full, so just meandered on, also discarding a beach parking area that definitely wasn't suitable (nobody there either!). Deciding to rejoin the N125, the main coastal road, we spotted a campsite that looked okay so, on a whim, thought we'd go and check. Yes, they did have room and it turned out to be much larger than was apparent from the road and not at all expensive at €18.50 p.n. including electricity so we booked in for 3 nights to take us over the weekend. We've found it's better to be parked up earlier on a Friday and stay put as, especially in Spain, the locals come out in force at the weekend!

We found plenty of pitches, about half in hedged spaces with the rest spread out over a wider area. As is often the case there were many semi-permanent caravans and a few motorhomes, all with awnings, extra tents etc but we found ourselves a spot on the edge of the site in one of the closed off pitches which looked to get quite a lot of sunshine throughout the day. After lunch we took Jamie for a walk around the site, noting the well-placed sanitation facilities, restaurant, bar, swimming pools and a well-stocked mini-market where we bought ice creams. Then back to the van for some sunshine although it wasn't as warm as we'd become used to.

The weather forecast is becoming our planner and it looks like it's going to be a bit unsettled for the next few days but we have everything we need so this'll do us for now.

Tuesday, 25 February 2025

Tuesday 25 February - Huelva to Salir

The traffic didn't stop until very late and restarted early in the morning. But that didn't matter because we were both up at various times during the night to see to a somewhat poorly puppy with a dicky tummy, needing to poo every hour or so. Or, well, trying to. He'd had very little to eat over the last 24 hours, not we hasten to say, an unusual occurrence, but maybe travelling again after a couple of weeks upset him. But he did eventually give us a couple of hours respite so that it was close to our normal surfacing time when we could no longer ignore the traffic noise.

No rush today as we haven't very far to travel so as there was nothing to hold us up we engaged TomTom and headed towards Portugal. But now, as forecast, the previously fine weather faltered and as we proceeded west it started to rain. We were also reminded yesterday that the roads in this part of Spain seemed to be suffering from some neglect as, although they obviously started out to be very good, many surfaces were starting to break up and we spent a lot of attention on avoiding the worst of the potholes, not all of them successfully, but we don't seem to have sustained any damage. Before long we crossed the huge bridge into Portugal, stopping to register with the automatic road toll system (though we have no intention of using toll roads, it's a legal requirement) then turned off towards the N125 coast road, well known to us from previous visits. With the weather unable to make its mind up we later turned north into the hills, climbing as far as the cloud base before dropping down again, our maps pointing out that this was a scenic route, with which we could not disagree. The rain eventually stopped with signs of the clouds clearing away.

John, Eds brother, lives in the town (well big village really) of Salir, well inland and north of Loule, itself north of Faro. A check of our camping apps showed a motorhome parking area there which turned out to be very smart and have all facilities, including electrical hookup, and very unusually was totally free! It even has a very helpful and laid-back, multi-lingual guardian who made us very welcome. The only restriction was that a visit was limited to 3 nights, plenty enough for us. It's difficult to see what the town gets from providing such generosity as it doesn't seem to have anything particularly going for it and is well off the beaten track. It is quite pretty however and the surrounding countryside very picturesque. Whatever, our thanks go out to the community and we'll try to put something back in. Meanwhile we selected a nice pitch and settled in, noticing that most of the 36 pitches were occupied - the guardian did say that it was a lot busier than yesterday, another good reason for arriving early in the day, it being around 12.30.

Lunch then a quick call to John telling him of our arrival and arranging to meet up for lunch tomorrow before getting the chairs out and once more soaking up some sunshine. The forecast is good for a few days so we'll make the most of it before deciding what to do next.

Monday, 24 February 2025

Monday 24 February - El Puerto de Santa Maria to Huelva

We've been at Camping Las Dunas for two weeks now, probably the longest we've stayed anywhere, so it's time to move on. Much of our gear was packed away yesterday leaving the basics to be finished off today. However Jamie decided that he needed to go out a couple of times which saw Terry wandering around the campsite in the dead of night with a poo bag! 7.30am saw us both up, cleaning him up after a particularly messy episode, so we just gave up and made a cuppa before getting the day started properly. We had decided on an early start anyway but.......

After breakfast we packed away the final bits of equipment, refilled the water tank and pumped the suspension back up. On the rear springs we have air-assist but when we stop it tends to stretch a bit so we let most of the air out which keeps the van level, just have to remember to pump it back up again or we get a very odd ride! Then after watching an inept Belgian almost reverse into another motorhome, despite screams and shouts from  other onlookers, we followed said Belgian round to the waste dump station where he couldn't seem to make his mind up which of the two to use. So we made it up for him and did ours first. He seemed a bit miffed!

Then with all the formalities already completed we simply drove out of the campsite and headed for our first stop, a large Mercadona supermarket on the edge of town. On this occasion we were following Google Maps on the phone but it sent us around in circles so, as TomTom wasn't doing any better, we found our own way out of the town until Google sorted itself out. Then with the larder fully replenished we headed out onto the A4 autovia to Cadiz. Cadiz? We wanted Seville which is the other way. So Terry switched his brain back on and 15km later we were on the right road in beautiful sunshine. Until once again a moment of inattention resulted in us missing the turn TomTom was giving us, but not to worry, we did exactly the same thing last year so carried on the N4 until we eventually got back onto our route.

Not unexpectedly, as it was lunchtime, it got busier the closer we got to Seville but we picked up signs showing an alternative route which avoided the inner ring road and ongoing roadworks on and around the big bridge then took us through the docks area, which we recalled we also did last year, before joining the autovia west towards Portugal. We paused at a service area for a latish lunch and also to review our plans for overnighting. We had agreed to meet up with our friend Eds brother who lives on the Algarve and had selected a motorhome parking place near his home. However we felt that it was now a bit far to go, bearing in mind trying to find a place late in the day in our experience wasn't a good idea. So Bren got busy with our campsite apps and found a couple in the port city of Huelva, just short of the Portuguese border. Google Maps seemed to be having a bad day so we pulled over to programme TomTom who took us to a very pleasant street parking area alongside the river where we joined a couple of other motorhomes, just squeezing into the only available space, although of course later in the day many of the parked cars left.

It's probably worth commenting that it is quite permissible to park a motorhome almost anywhere in Spain, even overnight, provided it is not causing an obstruction and, obviously, there are no local regulations prohibiting it. The main rule is that there must be no "camping behaviour", for example putting out tables and chairs, barbeques or erecting awnings, or discharging waste. However there is no rule forbidding sleeping inside. So provided you are careful and considerate you will usually be left alone, unless a number of campers all congregate and turn it into a makeshift campsite. It then only takes one complaint and the local police will come along and move you on. However one or two isolated motorhomes are most often left alone by patrolling police.

But I digress. The only problem with this spot was that it was on a fairly busy road and it continued to be so well into the evening, not helped by being located next to a "sleeping policeman" where every vehicle slowed right down and then accelerated away again! But it did quieten down, but as for it being an undisturbed night..............

Thursday, 20 February 2025

Some Photos

To be honest most of the places we've been to on this trip we've visited, and photographed, before so haven't really bothered much.

So in response to popular demand a small collage of odd photos we've taken at El Puerto de Santa Maria.

 

Camping Las Dunas

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The "new" roadbridge into Cadiz

Wild camping area along the way



Jamie and ball

Beach at El Puerto de Santa Maria



Beach at El Puerto de Santa Maria



Guardian

Nice sunshiny pitch

Beach at El Puerto de Santa Maria

 

Monday, 17 February 2025

Monday 17 February

An update just so you know we're still alive!

As we said in the last post we did not have any plans to do anything more than enjoy the sunshine and happily that's what we've been doing. We have been blessed with lovely weather with temperatures up to 19C during the day, although it has been quite low overnight. We have an excellent pitch giving us full sunshine almost all day and as there has been nothing more than a very light breeze the sun loungers have been well utilised!

There is a beautiful beach just across the road from the campsite and Jamie has enjoyed several romps, chasing a ball and paddling in the sea, usually with Terry close behind as he has a tendency to leave the ball in the water......

We have made a couple of forays into the edge of the town, firstly to find a hairdresser for Bren and today to the local Mercadonna supermarket to restock the fridge. As both were within walking distance there's been no need to move Bertie. There was also a flea market ouside the campsite yesterday which we went and had a look at but it was nothing more than a Spanish car boot sale. In the past when we've visited here we know there has been a nearby street market so we'll ask at Reception next time we're that way.

This is a very busy and popular site and we've seen lots of comings and goings with vans from almost all of Europe, although Germans and Dutch are the clear majority. There are a few "long-termers" around as well.

So we're just going to continue our present regime until it is time to leave. We're booked until next Monday so unless anything of note arises, we'll see you then.

Monday, 10 February 2025

Monday 10 February - Castellar de la Frontera to El Puerto de Santa Maria

Not much happened yesterday apart from noisy Spaniards enjoying their Sunday - there appeared to be a group of them in motorhomes plus a caravan but thankfully they all cleared off during the afternoon and peace descended once again.

So today we move up to our reserved pitch at Camping Las Dunas in El Puerto de Santa Maria (just going to be called El Puerto from now on!). Breakfast, and we ran out of water but no matter, we managed to do the washing up, before setting off back to Algeciras where we needed to get a new leash for Jamie as the buckle broke. A quick call inevitably into Mercadonna as there's always something we need.

That done we headed back onto the A7 then shortly the A381 north to Los Barrios where we refilled the gas bottles and then settled down to a steady hour and a half drive north. Road was quite quiet but they haven't done any repairs to it so a lot of the time was dodging broken surfaces, some of which looked to have been "repaired" more than once. We could have taken the coastal road but it is much slower so we let TomTom make the decisions. Eventually we turned off towards El Puerto, picking up a Guardia (police) tail until well into the town, then worked our way round to the campsite.

As we had already made, and paid, our reservation checkin was very quick and we were soon escorted to our pitch in the main centre of the site. We were lucky to be given a place in full sun with few trees to obstruct it and settled in. It was soon pullovers off, mat down, chairs out and fill the water tank then lunch and that's it! 

We have no plans to do much of anything for the next two weeks, apart from the usual domestics (we've a big pile of laundry to do), a visit to the Mercadonna supermarket next weekend and taking Jamie onto the fabulous beach just outside the campsite gates. So for the moment we won't be publishing a daily blog, just update as and when we think there's something to report.

Saturday, 8 February 2025

Saturday 8 February

As forecast it rained overnight but had dried up when we surfaced and took Jamie for his early morning ablutions. Most of the vans had left earlier so the car park was now quite empty. After breakfast Bren checked out the row of shops for some bits and pieces, particularly some of Jamies favourite treats we had run out of.

There is a Plenoil station here so we took the opportunity of once again refilling with incredibly cheap fuel, £1.13 per litre, then across to Carrefour to top up the larder prior to our stay at El Puerto de Santa Maria near Cadiz from Monday. That done we drove 20mins up to the aire at Castellar de la Frontera and emptied the waste and loo before parking up in a corner in the sunshine. Seems the water had been disconnected, a shame as we could have done with a top up but we should be okay until Monday.We do  have a couple of large bottles of water as a backup.

Latish lunch then, as we were getting excellent input from the solar panels, Terry spent the afternoon catching up on this blog (which is why there's a sudden rash of posts!). There's plenty of room to exercise Jamie so we'll stay here until Monday. During the afternoon the already half full aire saw more arriving although it never actually filled up completely. Unfortunately most of the newcomers were Spanish who were obviously meeting up for the weekend so it got a bit noisy. We chased off a Spanish campervan who was trying to park in the narrow space between us and the wall despite there being a perfectly adequate parking bay literally right next to them albeit at 90 degrees. If we'd let her stay she would have blocked off access to two other spaces!

A lot warmer this evening than of late so we didn't bother with the screens.

We have been checking the current exchange rate, always making our purchases in Euros, and we are seeing €1.20 / £1.00. Excellent, wonder how long it will last?

Friday, 7 February 2025

Friday 7 February - Casabermeja to Algeciras

Yes, very cold! Even Jamie wasn't interested in getting up early! But the new heater is very efficient until the sun gets up and another lovely day beckons. We had no company overnight although a pair of Dutch vans arrived as we were getting ready to depart at 11.00ish.

Back onto the autovia and down to Malaga to rejoin the A7, this time our destination being Algeciras. Once again very busy, much the same as yesterday but when the sun is shining and you are passing through attractive scenery who cares? It was only a relatively short run today and we chose Algeciras as overnighting wouldn't be a problem and we coud take our pick of several large supermarkets to stock up from pending our arrival at El Puerto de Santa Maria on Monday. 

So we chose to use the Mercadonna end of the huge parking area, Bren calling in for a baguette for lunch and coming back with a full shopping bag! Lunch and then a lazy afternoon watching the parking fill up with dozens of motorhomes of all nationalities, type and condition - we're sure some of them have never seen a vehicle testing station! 

Took Jamie out for his final walkies for the evening and it looked like we were on the edge of a huge campsite, although strangely it was almost empty when we got up on Saturday. We put this down to Algeciras being the recognised jumping-off spot for Morocco with the vast majority of ferries leaving from the port. This means there are plenty of ticket agencies around but the favourite still seems to be Carlos at Voyages Normandie who we noticed has moved to a much bigger office.

Thursday, 6 February 2025

Thursday 6 February - Palomares to Casabermeja

A lazy start, once Bren had sorted Jamie at 7.30, to another bright sunny day which had once again started off as rather cool. During breakfast we were approached by an Irish motorhomer, asking for assistance with a flat battery, which of course we were happy to do if he didn't mind waiting until we were leaving - no problem. Once we were all sorted we went across, got him started and had a brief chat during which we discovered his wife was responsible for naming The Wild Atlantic Way. He told us where they lived, which we noted, and told us we'd be very welcome if we were passing.

Our plan today was to head south west along the coast to somewhere around Malaga. Going inland via Granada would have been faster but the weather forecast was not good that way and we later saw that the Sierra Nevada, the mountain range close to that city, was covered in snow - it was plenty cold enough where we were thankyou!

Back onto the A7. From hereon the A7 meets and diverges several times with the AP7 autopista toll road so gets very busy, passing through many coastal towns. Tourism is of course the main occupation in this part of Spain with rows of apartments and all the supporting industry. Unfortunately some of the driving leaves much to be desired and half the time it's a matter of trying to work out just what they intend to do. Coupled with wildly varying speed limits this is an intensive driving experience.

Nevertheless we survived, pausing at a signposted Aldi near Almerimar for lunch before starting to consider our overnight stop. We thought Malaga would be a good target distance so Bren spent a little time in researching our campsite apps. However, as we learned from a newspaper article, motorhoming has expanded out of all proportion in Spain and it soon became evident that we had little hope of finding anywhere on or near the coast.

Although the current news carries many reports of Spanish cities clamping down on tourists, they are mainly aimed at fixed letting accomodation, such as AirBNB, which means there is no reasonably priced housing for locals, and you can understand their anger. But nobody seems yet to have noticed that the country is also being swamped with motorhome and camper travellers for whom very little provision is being made, certainly not on any scale. There are a few enterprising individuals who have taken note and provide good quality "camperstops", places where you can stay short term with proper facilities, but we've not seen any new full campsites. As far as we can see it is necessary to make early prior reservation to have any hope of staying in a particular place. We forecast that it won't be too long before there is a national clampdown and Spain, certainly the Costas, will become a no-go area for the likes of us.

But I digress. In the past we have looked at places a little way from the popular coastal resorts and to this end Bren found a couple heading into the mountain area north of Malaga. We decided to take our chance on a likely candidate, although with no services, and programmed TomTom. It turned out to be the large parking area for a local sports facility on the edge of the village of Casabermeja with loads of room and no other motorhome so we picked a likely spot and planted ourselves for the night. Nothing there except fabulous scenery, it's only downside for us was the motorway in the valley below was very audible although once buttoned up we hardly could hear it.

But it's already pretty cold.........

Wednesday, 5 February 2025

Wednesday 5 February - San Fulgencio to Palomares

Walked Jamie early then breakfast followed by a chat with D & J. Intention is for them to return to the casa and we'll follow along before leaving them at the Tebar hotel to continue our holiday. A lot of messing about before we finally got on the road at 11.50, far later than we really wanted, but hey ho, we don't need to be anywhere soon.

With TomTom in charge we took a cross-country route back to the A7 heading for Murcia then Almeira, initially quite a busy road again. However we must have missed a turn or something because we found ourselves in serious roadworks, which we had not encountered northbound, going in circles before finally stopping and asking a policeman. Despite him only speaking Spanish we deduced which way to go and finally regained the A7 - Derek later told us he tried to warn us but we missed that.

So eventually we arrived in Lorca and refuelled at the Plenoil there (£1.13pl) before the quick run towards Aguilas. We stopped at the hotel as planned, said our farewells and pushed on, first to Aguilas where we paused for a very late lunch, then on to Anibels, the motorhome service station, where we emptied the waste and refilled with water, all for the princely sum of €3 - there ought to be more of these places!

It now being much later than we'd hoped we decided to return to Palomares and the wild camping area so set off, although again something went wrong with the directions. We came up behind a funeral cortege just before a turning to Palomares, which we took, but then so did the funeral and we were stuck behind them at 30kph all the way to the cemetery - in Palomares!

However we were now totally lost with no road signs, just small agricultural farm roads in every direction. Hoping for the best we headed generally tiowards the sea and unexpectedly came out right opposite the wild camping area we stayed at a few nights ago! We returned to the spot we had occupied, noting that our "neighbours" were still there and gratefully anchored down for the night.

Tuesday, 4 February 2025

Tuesday 4 February - San Fulgencio

A quiet night, Jamie lasting until a reasonable time for a change with a pleasant walk as yet another lovely day got under way. Derek and June appeared to have spent a pleasant night, only finding a couple of very minor niggles, so after breakfast we had a quick trip into the town itself to exchange some currency then returned to the local Mercadonna supermarket for supplies then the local China Shop for, well, whatever was needed. Returned to our parking spot but removed to the other side of the road as we had managed to park right next to the campsite toilet dump............

The afternoon was spent investigating things and planning our next move. J & D decided to return to Aguilas to collect some more things then close the place up ready to travel home. We decided to accompany them as far as the Tebar hotel where we would say byebye before continuing on our own trip.

To finish off we went to the San Fulgencio Fish and Chip shop; at first Terry was a little dubious but on arrival it looked as the food was as traditionally UK as it could be so we all enjoyed cod, chips and garden peas with of course bread and butter. A bit expensive but we did also have drinks and a very nice pudding each! Then back to the parking area for an earlyish night.

Monday, 3 February 2025

Monday 3 February - Aguilas to San Fulgencio

Early wake up call but as it was only just starting to get light put the heating on and went back to bed! At a much more civilised time emerged into another sunny and rapidly warming up day to get ready for our main purpose we've been hanging around the area, to take our friends to collect their new motorhome. So after breakfast we loaded up a few things they'd need then all aboard for the 2 hour run tio Elche. There was no rush as the appointment wasn't until 4.00pm so we had an unhurried drive along a very busy A7 autovia, arriving around 1.30pm. As expected it was closed so we went off in search of lunch.

It appears that Caravanas Cruze is a large dealer who are currently hosting a large exhibition in another locality and all of their staff are there so everything is by appointment.

"I know a good place" quoth he - but it was closed on Monday so frartther than scratch around looking for somewhere we just parked up and raided our plentiful supplies to kill time. As we arrived back to the dealer they were just opening up for us and we spent the next hour or so doing the handover of a very nice French built A-Class, not our particular cup of tea but what our friends wanted.

Once done the plan was to spend a couple of nights not too far away as a "shakedown" in case there were any problems. It is their intention to return to the UK almost immdeiately to collect all their "gear" as well as a medical appontment, so they wanted to make sure all was okay before they left. So we decided to head for an old haunt at San Fulgencio where, if we couldn't get on a site of some sort, we could wild camp around there. Only about 20 minutes and, as expected, everywhere was full so we chose a quiet spot on a side street and settled down. Bren provided an evening meal for all four of us as obviously they had no equipment as such.

Sunday, 2 February 2025

Sunday 2 February - Aguilas

 2.15 callout but peace thereafter until a latish start as it's Sunday. Smoked salmon and scrambled eggs again.

Once again a cool start but warming up quickly with the sun. After breakfast we were taken to Aguilas for a looksee and to get some cash. Parked on a very bust harbour and a short walk into the central plaza, noting that all the restaurants were full of Spanish families doing what they do on Sundays. We'd heard bells, trumpets and drums and upon entering the square we walked into a celebration of the local saint, who had been paraded around the town in/on/whatever a huge silver coffin carried by a dozen men. Carried back into the church the crowd dispersed and we managed to get cash from an ATM, for a change being offered our selection of notes rather than all €50 - have you ever tried to buy a coffee with a £50 note?

Speaking of coffee, we found a cafe in a nice sunny spot for cafe con leche and watched the world go by before strolling back to the car and returning to base where Jamie was patiently waiting - we left him because there was no room for his cage and he would not travel otherwise. No matter because it doesn't seem to bother him.

Aguilas is not a big town although it does have quite a lot of commercial and industrial devlopment around it together with, of course, areas of holiday accomodation.

More chat then an earlyish night. We've been so lucky with the weather, almost continuous bright sunshine with light breezes giving temperatures up to around 18C during the day, if closer to freezing overnight.

Saturday, 1 February 2025

Saturday 1 February - Palomares to Aguilas

No disturbances and up to another lovely day although still quite cool until the sun gets up. Nice long walk, accidentally 'cos we got sort of lost, then later after breakfast we went onto the beach, such as it was, to let his lordsahip have a paddle and run around.

Our plan is to meet up with our friends for lunch at the Tebar Hotel so once everything was cleared away we set off, initially into Palomares itself in search of an ATM. However the machine didn't seem to want to know any of our cards so we left it for now. A lovely run along the coast to Aguilas with lots of motorhomes parked up in every available space.

Arrived at the hotel bang on time for a leisurely lunch then up to "the tin shed" as Derek so fondly puts it, taking every care whilst reersing in not to take the water drain tap off again! The rest of the afternoon was just enjoying the sunshine, the beautiful view and good company until the sun dropped behind a cloud and it suddenly went distinctly cool. A light tea then more chat finished the day off perfectly.


Friday, 31 January 2025

Friday 31 January - Cabo de Gata to Palomares

Since the last post we've done pretty well nothing, the weather has been fine though not particularly warm and we've enjoyed just hanging around. There have been some quite strong winds but the only effect on us has been the tops of the trees blowing around as we're well protected by tall hedges and the gale coming down the valley has been broken up by the buildings.

Jamie has disturbed us pretty well every night, wanting to go out for a wee, although we suspect it is more that he wants some attention and is bored just lying around. But Camping Dunas at El Puerto have confirmed our reservation so he's got long runs on a beautiful beach to look forward to.

But we're running out of provisions and, whilst the on-site shop is okay for emergencies, we really could do with some retail therapy. So after packing away, breakfast and then servicing the van we said our byebyes to the nice reception lady and headed out. Because we're going back to maybe meet our friends again we chose the town of Vera, not far away but a nice run through the Nature Reserve. Found Mercadonna okay which had a parking fee system, but if you bought enough it was free - no problem for us! Then, because we thought it would have the few items we'd run out of and couldn't get elsewhere, we went to the Iceland Overseas store just outside the town, parking in a back street as it was impossible to get Berties into their car park.

For those interested Iceland Overseas is a British owned and operated small chain of supermarkets in Spain catering to the UK ex-pat population as well as myriads of visitors. It's stock is mostly British branded food and drink, albeit a little more expensive than local alternatives - every item has to have a special "approved for sale in Spain" label"

Our "few items" turned into a full trolley load and we struggled a little getting it all packed away. Once we're at El Puerto before we do another shop we'll have a big sortout and rearrange it back to our normal layout. Having lots of cupboards is great as long as you can remember where you put things! Then lunch while we decided on where next. The weather forecast is good and we're in no rush to rejoin our friends we thought we might have a look at some of the wild camping areas around Palomares, an area we've stayed before. We did check a couple of campsites and camperstops, which as expected were all full. 

But there were a number of large beach areas with room to spread well out and many motorhomers had chosen to stay there. No facilities but if you are self-contained a few days is very workable. The only downside is very occasionally the police come along and clear them out, usually because there have been complaints. Unhappily there are a few selfish people who either don't understand, or just plain ignore, the wild camping "code" thus spoiling it for everybody. 

We investigated the first we came to, realising that we had in fact visited this very site before whilst staying at a campsite just a few hundred yards back into the hills. It would have been fine but we thought we'd have a look at some others, there being maybe half a dozen places in our camperstop apps. As it turned out the next wasn't actually in the apps but nevertheless had loads of room with may be 50 vans spread all over. We found a spot at the back of the beach which afforded us a little shelter from the breeze and decided this would do for a night or two.

Derek and June had been having problems getting a firm date to collect their new van and we had just been hanging around waiting to see if anything changed. So it was with some relief that late on we learned that the collection paperwork had finally been sorted out so we decided that tomorrow we'd return to the ranch.

Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Los Nigros, Cabo de Gata

No blog updates for a few days because, frankly, we've got nothing to add! The campsite is generally very quiet, although pretty full, mostly Germans with a generous smattering of Brits plus representatives of other European nations - although haven't spotted any Scandinavians, perhaps they're all in Morocco? Many of the residents seem to be here for a longer term, having alternative means of transport, although there are a few changeovers every day of course.

The beach isn't much, mostly shingle and gravel, and doesn't seem to be hugely popular. The only access to the village is back along the steep cliffside road and there's nothing there anyway - if you want to get away from it all but still have access to good facilities this is a good spot. There is a swimming pool, simple restaurant and a "supermarket" for basics so if you are happy making your own entertainment it's ideal.

The weather has been fine since we got here with bright sunshine and temperatures as high as 22C, remaining relatively warm overnight too. The only downside is that the shading over the pitches means we don't get the full benefit of the sunshine, it really only being a few hours after lunch having the best exposure.

But we are happy enough just relaxing, glad to be here rather than suffering the storms and snow back in the UK. There is plenty of room to walk Jamie, although he's really not getting enough exercise, disturbing us most nights.

As I write this we're going through a 36 hour period of strong winds but it's still 19C. Because of this we've decided to stay here for a few days longer, not wanting to risk being unable to find somewhere that is reasonably protected. All the campsites seem to be full - had to sweet talk the receptionist to let us stay longer - and all the wild camping spots appeared to be crammed although we haven't actually investigated any.

Our plan is to move on Friday, mainly because we really need a big supermarket shop, then head back north a short distance. Our friends are due to collect their new motorhome next week and we've promised to offer our assistance and company for a few days shakedown. Thereafter who knows?


Tuesday, 21 January 2025

Tuesday 21 January - Aguilas to Cabo de Gata

6.45 a.m. he's getting better! An hour or two later was deemed more acceptable to surface and have breakfast before preparing to depart. We were in no rush so by the time we had (very carefully) extracted the van from the driveway so we didn't damage the water tank again, and said our farewells  it was 11.25.

Several calls to make today, refill the gas bottles, probably the fuel tank and some shopping as our plans have included another longer stay at a campsite. It was obvious that Spain has once again attracted the entire European population of motorhomers with many places crowded with wild-campers so we've decided that we'll stick to campsites, hopefully being able to book ahead, and only use other places for when we are in-transit.

First call was Annibels for gas, which turned out to be a fuel station that had expanded to be a camperstop and service point and was crowded with motorhomes. We joined the queue for gas but decided we didn't need anything else there and moved on, for now keeping to the smaller very scenic coast road. Passing through one of the small towns we spotted a Pleinoil so called in top up with cheap diesel. Bren spotted a Mercadonna supermarket but we couldn't find anywhere to park so carried on, eventually spotting our old favourite Lidl for the shopping and a lunch break.

We fancied returning to a very quiet site we'd visited a good few years ago with Tony Westwell, an old coach driver colleague who is sadly no longer with us. Checking on-line it looked like it had been well redeveloped and possibly still had some room - there were a couple of others around if that was not the case. So TomTom was programmed and we set off, once again on the A7 autovia before turning off into the Cabo de Gata National Park, a desert-like nature preservation area and down to the rocky coastline and village of Los Negros. A narrow roadway along the clifftops took us about 1km to We Camping where we discovered it was indeed almost unrecognisable fro and am the past as well as practically full.

At first the receptionist didn't think they could help, despite having a few empty pitches, mainly because they all had fixed canopies which we were unable to get under - we did try...... But perseverance paid off and we found a spot tucked away in a corner with a higher cover and manoeuvered our way in. We've booked for a week as it has everything we need including a pool, supermarket, restaurant and a small beach for Jamie.

The day had become surprisingly warm and after the regulation cuppa we found ourselves a little weary so settled down for a short nap........ Some hours later (!) we switched the lights on and got some supper!

The weather forecast is good, at least for the next few days with sunshine and temperatures of 22C so this'll do us for the week.

Monday, 20 January 2025

Monday 20 January - Nr. Aguilas

Five a.m. but Terry was up anyway so a quick walk around the garden and back to bed until a more reasonable hour! Another bright sunny day and after a leisurely breakfast just wasted the morning chatting with our friends plus a couple of neighbours. There are perhaps around a dozen residences in the complex, a couple of Brits, some Spanish and whilst we watched new German/Swiss owners of the chalet next door spent the entire day ripping out the interior, presumably with a view to completely renovating it. To be honest we didn't really think it would have been worth it as Derek thinks they paid well over the odds for what is basically a caravan with a veranda on a rented piece of ground; they'll never get their money back. But they were using a brand new Porsche SUV as a delivery truck..............

Come lunchtime we went down to the hotel/restaurant at the place we met up with our hosts for a meal, lunchtime because they are closed in the evening. Despite it being not much to look at and definitely a locals establishment the food was very good. The €11 plata de dias included a salad entree, first course of appetisers, a main course then a simple dessert as well as a drink, cola, wine or beer. Simple, basic fare.

Back to the ranch and a coffee later we tidied up and serviced the van ready for the off in the morning. Later we discussed how we might help in collecting D & J's new motorhome which they will need to collect from Elche, about 100km north, as June no longer drives. Once they know when it will be ready we'll see what we can do but as we don't have anywhere particular to be at any time it should be possible.

We have really enjoyed our few days with Derek and June, they're the kind of folk who you don't see for a while but then meet up as if it's only been a day or so and continue where you left off! But life moves on and so must we.

Sunday, 19 January 2025

Sunday 19 January - Near Aguilas

We cannot say an undisturbed night because this is becoming a feature of the holiday, Jamie wanting out at 6.30. But it was Sunday so once he had been seen to it was quiet until a much more respectable hour saw us greet an absolutely beautiful morning, the sun heating up the van very quickly. Smoked salmon breakfast, no particular reason why we didn't have the bacon we'd brought in the freezer, it had just been an impulse purchase at Mercadonna. To hell with the cost we're going to enjoy ourselves!

First order of the day was to refill the water tank and see how our repairs had done. To our relief not a drop of water after the first partial fill so we continued until full. A few checks later we declared ourselves satisfied - now, that concrete lip could do with some attention..................


 

Much of the rest of the day was spent sitting out in the sun, enjoying the view and the pleasant company. Late afternoon a little foray with Derek down to the unofficial rubbish dump - no facility in the complex, electricity was supplied by the site owners which we learned was not cheap and explained the profusion of solar panels, gas was by self-purchased bottles and the water was apparently from a local source and not to be entirely trusted. Ah well, you can't have everything and paradise too but it seemed to suit a lot of people as the properties appeared to sell easily enough, next door spent all day finishing emptying theirs.

As the sun set (bother, forgot the photo) once again we enjoyed a self-prepared evening meal and chat over drinks before adjourning for hopefully an uninterrupted sleep. Fat chance!

Saturday, 18 January 2025

Saturday 18 January - Murcia to Aguilas

Up at 2.30 for Jamie, we were not quick enough so had a rather large wet patch to deal with, just what you need in the middle of the night. We are beginning to wonder why he no longer seems able to last through the night, perhaps it's all the travelling without the chance to regularly relieve himself although we give him every opportunity we can. We'll watch for a pattern.

It didn't stop him asking again at 6-40 so once again Bren donned coat and hat and went for a short walk. The signs all indicated that the market would be starting to assemble very early but no sign of it, even though the car park was half full of trucks and vans. At a more respectable getting up time we spotted folk going into the adjacent large building and guessed that was the actual venue - we didn't visit.

Breakfast, service the van and a chat with a Funster couple before getting on our way. As mentioned before our friends have bought a holiday home near Aguilas and we'd been invited to visit when we were in the area. From our stopover it was maybe a 2 hour drive so, after managing to translate the destination instructions onto TomTom we rejoined the autovia, routing around Lorca towards Aguilas, which is a popular holiday resort on the coast. As their place was "in the back of beyond" we'd been told to stop at a hotel/restaurant on the main road, call them and they would come and meet us, which all went to plan. Once greetings were completed we followed them, firstly to a supermarket for some essentials, then back to their "pad".

We'll post pictures later but it is a really nice 2-bed holiday home, on a small complex of similar places in the mountains above Aguilas with fantastic views. Plenty of room to park Bertie, although the gate was a little narrow, unfortunately there was a raised concrete lip and we managed to "ground" the fresh water tank, yes you've guessed it, ripping off the drain pipe yet again, even though we'd had it shortened. What a stupid design. Naughty words but we'll have lunch then sort it out later.

Fortunately it wasn't damaged too much and with the use of some bits and pieces plus a cartridge of silicone sealant we managed to replace the pipe and actually ended up doing a much better job. We decided to let the whole thing dry out and cure overnight before attempting to refill the tank until tomorrow, water now not being too much of a problem with a tap almost next to us.

The rest of the day was spent chatting and enjoying a nice evening meal - the restaurant mentioned earlier was only open at lunchtime so that idea had to be abandoned but we had more than enough "stuff" to do our own thing. Happily the garden was dog proof so we could let Jamie off to explore for himself although he never ventured far from us plus he also got a few walks around the complex, meeting various local dogs of course.

A beautiful sunset from the front window somehow got missed so we'll try for a piccie again tomorrow.

Friday, 17 January 2025

Friday 17 January - Valencia to Murcia

As expected quite heavy rain throughout the night but it did become more intermittent as we got breakfast, finished the packing and serviced the van. The insulating screens were, of course, soaking wet so once folded and bagged were put in the shower to drain - they were never going to dry out though until opened out again, not a problem.

All done and checked out we were away by 10.40 with a plan to first find a supermarket to refill the much depleted fridge then make our way south west to Aguilas although it is quite a drive so we were not really expecting to get there today. Whether we missed a turn or what we didn't find the large Carrefour we thought we remembered from previous years so for the moment just set the satnav for Murcia and joined the A7 autovia. We spotted a Pleinoil service station sign so pulled off and refuelled with the cheapest diesel we've seen for a long long time, £1.15pl.

 

 Continued on the A7 noting snow on the hills alongside not much higher than us. Bren did a little research and found a Mercadona supermarket at Castella so navigated us there using Google Maps on her phone for a change! The app reported plenty of outdoor parking but failed to mention it was all the covered type and at 2.3m was no good for us. However the road outside was quiet with plenty of room so we just parked there, moving a little to accomodate an articulated lorry waiting to reverse into the loading bay.

Shopping completed we had a latish lunch whilst researching possible stopovers as Aguilas was now just a little too far. The weather had dried out completely and we enjoyed a steady run, still on the A7 until the satnav turned us off around Murcia to a free local authority motorhome area in the suburbs. Basically part of a municipal carpark with a service point it was almost full but we found a  nice spot and settled in with a cuppa and slice of Christmas cake.

No rush tomorrow and there is apparently a market in the carpark.